It was only last week when I completed Bishwanath Ghosh's fitting tribute to Madras - Tamarind City. I don't believe in coincidences, but the stars had to be lined for me to finish the book almost the same week when the city was celebrating its Madras Week.
Today, is Madras Day. I am not going to drole on about filter kaapi, the Ilayaraja music, and other things which would be as good wherever in the world we choose to enjoy them. Filter kaapi on the shores of the Mediterranean, with Ilayaraja plugged in will be pretty good, you have to admit. It is not unique to Chennai. Neither Ilayaraja or the filter kaapi are 'Madrasi', as the Northies would like to call it. Kumbakonam makes an equally mean filter kaapi, and Raja is from Theni, a town 500 odd km from Chennai. So, definitely not Chennai.
Chennai to me are other unique things, unique feelings. Experiences that other cities wouldn't be able to duplicate.
1. The Culture - The city embraces its culture. Its not stored away in an old trunk, waiting to be displayed during marriages or other such occasions. It's there for everyone to see, everyday. The namam, patais, mallipoo, and whatnot.
2. The Weather - or the heat. The sweltering Chennai heat, and the sea breeze in the evenings, almost as if the sea was apologizing for it's unruly kid.
3. The History - To quote Ghosh, the city is almost like a shy maiden. She will not tell you about the people who tried wooing her, and failing miserably at that. About a certain Francis Day, who had his mistress in the Portuguese settlement of San Thome, a mistress he wanted to stay very close to for obvious reasons. That's why he suggested Madras as a possible 'starting ground' for The East India Company in the 1600s. Then there is Sir Arthur Wellesley, who stayed for long periods in Madras before going into battle to defeat a certain Napolean Bonnaparte. None of us will know any of this, or about Elihu Yale,who went on to set up the Yale University. Yale wooed the maiden, just like Robert Clive - who thrice tried to commit suicide in Fort St. George. He failed all three times, went on to win the Battle of Plassey, and establish what we know today as The British Empire in India. We don't know any of this because the shy maiden that Madras is, doesn't tell us. She smiles when we mention it - but doesn't offer further details. You'll need to probe and probe if you want more details. The people of Madras take after the city. Shy, almost unwilling to accept how good they are. The Ramanujams, the Radhakrishnans. If born anywhere else in the world, they would have gotten more fame and fortune they did in Madras. But that's what Madras does to you, leaves you grounded.
3. The History - To quote Ghosh, the city is almost like a shy maiden. She will not tell you about the people who tried wooing her, and failing miserably at that. About a certain Francis Day, who had his mistress in the Portuguese settlement of San Thome, a mistress he wanted to stay very close to for obvious reasons. That's why he suggested Madras as a possible 'starting ground' for The East India Company in the 1600s. Then there is Sir Arthur Wellesley, who stayed for long periods in Madras before going into battle to defeat a certain Napolean Bonnaparte. None of us will know any of this, or about Elihu Yale,who went on to set up the Yale University. Yale wooed the maiden, just like Robert Clive - who thrice tried to commit suicide in Fort St. George. He failed all three times, went on to win the Battle of Plassey, and establish what we know today as The British Empire in India. We don't know any of this because the shy maiden that Madras is, doesn't tell us. She smiles when we mention it - but doesn't offer further details. You'll need to probe and probe if you want more details. The people of Madras take after the city. Shy, almost unwilling to accept how good they are. The Ramanujams, the Radhakrishnans. If born anywhere else in the world, they would have gotten more fame and fortune they did in Madras. But that's what Madras does to you, leaves you grounded.
4. The people, the co-existence of cultures. The Parthasarathy temple and it's proud Iyengars in Triplicane. The equally egoistic Iyers and their Kabali temple in Mylapore. The co-existence of the two, and the protection of Brahminism that they have taken upon themselves. To think the only people separating these two are the Muslims of Royappetah.
5. The humble middle class. The people who rush to work, get back and plan their next day without a thought. The upper class with their kitty parties. The co mingling of the two. The vanishing or the disappearance of the almost thin lines separating them.
6. The city's love for cricket, and a newfound love for football and it's ability to support both without prejudice - and it's gradual excellence in both sports.
7. It's humble, humble people, redefining the phrase 'salt of the Earth'. It's Vishwanath Anands, Manu Josephs, Kris Srikanths. It's cult figures. The city that once celebrated an unknown MS Subbalakshmi, today welcomes many more future stars. And all of them are but left humbled by the love shown. The ability of it's people to excel without a complaint. To brave the heat but with a smile.
8.Its food. The sambhar. Little did I know I'd appreciate this only after leaving the city.
Today, I'm fortunate enough to live only 300 km/5 hours away from Madras. I manage to get home almost every weekend to stay close to home. To me, home is not home because of it's huge skyscrapers, great skylines or amazing weather. My home doesn't have any of this. All it has is a heart to accept. It can take a pounding. Corrupt politicians, crazy weather, a tsunami, and a couple of cyclones. None of this can shake Madras. Madras will remain what it is for it's people and it's ability to accept change. Triplicane and Mylapore will remain. Even as Nungambakkam evolves. That's what Madras will always be about. The Madras of my dreams.
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